One of my students at the university today was wearing a really nice necklace - wooden and beaded with loads of different colours. I told her it was a pretty necklace, and she took it off and gave it to me. I tried to refuse, saying it was very pretty *on her* and I couldn't accept, but she pushed it into my hands and walked off. Another student said I had to take it. So I did.
I'll be more careful making comments about peoples' possessions in future!
Thursday 29 October 2009
Saturday 29 August 2009
I am completely free at the moment. I won't start back at work until the end of September. I admit I have been wasting a lot of time lazing around at home - browsing the internet. I will regret that when I am older and time is running out.
On Thursday I made myself get up and leave the house in the morning to go exploring.
I took a minibus to Kadikoy, and got on a ferry to Besiktas. My vague plan was to go to Bebek and/or Emirgan Park, although I didn't know exactly where they were or how to get there. Public transport can be confusing in Istanbul.
View from the ferry:
Once in Besiktas, I took a bus heading towards Sariyer. I became distracted when I spotted Istinyer Park shopping centre, and got off the bus to indulge in some shopping. It was the nicest shopping centre I've been to in this city - so light and airy.
Then I headed to Bebek, which was lovely. I enjoyed the evening with an iced coffee at Caffe Nero and a read of the new British Cosmopolitan. The views were lovely. Wish I lived closer.
Took a bus back to Besiktas, and took the 7:45pm ferry back to the Asian side. The sun was setting over the city, and it was as though everyone was holding their breath waiting for the call to prayer, indicating fasting was over for the day.
I admire those who are successfully doing it - it's not easy in this heat and in August, the hours of fasting are so long. In daylight hours, most cafes and restaurants are empty, but after sunset, they are packed out, and many are doing special Iftar promotions. Even McDonalds and Pizza Hut are getting in on the act.
On Thursday I made myself get up and leave the house in the morning to go exploring.
I took a minibus to Kadikoy, and got on a ferry to Besiktas. My vague plan was to go to Bebek and/or Emirgan Park, although I didn't know exactly where they were or how to get there. Public transport can be confusing in Istanbul.
View from the ferry:
Once in Besiktas, I took a bus heading towards Sariyer. I became distracted when I spotted Istinyer Park shopping centre, and got off the bus to indulge in some shopping. It was the nicest shopping centre I've been to in this city - so light and airy.
Then I headed to Bebek, which was lovely. I enjoyed the evening with an iced coffee at Caffe Nero and a read of the new British Cosmopolitan. The views were lovely. Wish I lived closer.
Took a bus back to Besiktas, and took the 7:45pm ferry back to the Asian side. The sun was setting over the city, and it was as though everyone was holding their breath waiting for the call to prayer, indicating fasting was over for the day.
I admire those who are successfully doing it - it's not easy in this heat and in August, the hours of fasting are so long. In daylight hours, most cafes and restaurants are empty, but after sunset, they are packed out, and many are doing special Iftar promotions. Even McDonalds and Pizza Hut are getting in on the act.
Thursday 20 August 2009
FOOD
I used to be quite a squeamish eater. I only really ate fish and chicken and was rather fussy.
Since coming to Istanbul, my guard has gradually been worn down.
I now like midye dolma (stuffed mussels), midye tava (fried mussels), but today I finally bit the bullet and tried kokorec. That's lambs intenstines. I only managed a few bites. It smells bad. It has white crunch unidentifiable bits in it. It was quite gross and greasy. But I felt proud of myself for at least trying something new.
Midye dolma:
Kokorec (bear in mind that no photograph can do justice to the awful smell kokorec gives off):
Since coming to Istanbul, my guard has gradually been worn down.
I now like midye dolma (stuffed mussels), midye tava (fried mussels), but today I finally bit the bullet and tried kokorec. That's lambs intenstines. I only managed a few bites. It smells bad. It has white crunch unidentifiable bits in it. It was quite gross and greasy. But I felt proud of myself for at least trying something new.
Midye dolma:
Kokorec (bear in mind that no photograph can do justice to the awful smell kokorec gives off):
Tuesday 30 December 2008
Monday 15 December 2008
Saturday 13 December 2008
Bayram was great. I finally had a chance to see this city, and I'm starting to fall in love with it.
This was Thursday.
I got up super early to go and meet a friend at Haydrpasa station.
We had breakfast in the train station restaurant. It beats UK train station catering by miles. All these beautiful blue tiles and light streaming in through the windows. And a great traditional Turkish breakfast to start the day with - cheese, tomatoes, cucumber, jam, olives, bread, and plenty of tea.
After my friend set off for Ankara, I wandered along the beach. I was looking for the Moda tea rooms, which have been recommended to me. I wanted to read my book and enjoy the views. I couldn't find it, so I took a ferry to Eminonu on the European side. I love travelling by ferry from Asia to Europe. It has to be one of the the best ways of travelling - or the most stunning commute in the world for those who work on the other side. It retains a touch of old fashioned glamour. The views are amazing, and it's so atmospheric. A guy goes around selling cups of cay for 50g (about 20p). I've actually stopped converting prices into pounds. I'm earning Turkish money so it makes so sense to convert it.
I walked over the Galata bridge, which is always packed with fishermen. Everyone had told me not to attempt climbing the hill and to take the tram up to Taksim, but a)I like walking, and b)why would I pay for the tram when I have legs? It's a really steep hill. I think if I had tried to climb it at the beginning of the year, I would have collapsed, I was so unfit. But I've done a lot of walking this year (in Poland in the mountains, in Birmingham rather than taking the bus, and in New York, and now here) and my fitness has improved hugely.
I got to Istikal Cadessi, which is like the main high street, lined with shops and cafes. Stopped off in Starbucks for a chai latte and some people watching.
I never go to Starbucks in the UK but I've started going here occasionally, simply because it's the only place I can get chai. It's not even proper chai but it's hot and vaguely spicy and it will do. I sat outside and watched the people go by.
I wandered up to Taksim Square. I really want to buy a microphone for my laptop for Skype purposes. But the only one I've seen here is way too expensive. Plus the last time I used Skype, the line was terrible. I had to shout, and my Grandma could hardly make out what I was saying.
I strolled along some alleyways lined with little shops. Found a cool shop selling prints and small posters of old movies and adverts from the early 1900s. Went into a beautiful Italian church.
I then spent a happy few hours in an English book shop called Robinson Crusoe. It's a book shop just as book shops should be - old and wooden and creaky, with shelves stuffed with all sorts of books. The trouble is, books are expensive here (they just convert the UK price into YTL). I love books, but I can be a difficult customer to satisfy. I'm often unimpressed with stories, or get bored with them. Therefore, I don't want to spend 20 or 30 YTL on something unless I'm pretty sure I will enjoy it. I picked up quite a few books and almost bought them - a few Haruki Murakumi ones and Love in the time of Cholera. Eventually, I just bought Time Out Istanbul, and wandered back down to the Galata Bridge.
I stopped off on the way at the Galata Tower I sat down on a bench outside, and this nice old Turkish lady was trying to chat to me. I want to be able to speak Turkish! I like random chats!
I decided to climb the tower. There was quite a long queue, and everyone was pushing and getting into each others personal space, as happens all the time here. When you walk down the street, people will shove into you quite hard. When I first got here, it really bothered me, as it would in England, but I've come to realise that no-one cares or does it with any malice - they don't even really notice. So I've started barging and shoving too :-)
The sign about admission prices was rather typically Turkish and annoying. Thankfully, I do know enough Turkish by now to be able to understand basic signs. The sign went something like this:
BILET: BES YTL
TICKET: 10 YTL
Bes means 5. So clearly it's a con, as people who can't understand Turkish pay 10. Indeed, I saw some tourists in front of me pay 10 each. I thought: huh, I'm not bloody paying 10 when it's 5, and marched up and spoke in Turkish. The clerk blatantly knew I wasn't Turkish but was probably too embarrassed to try to charge me 10.
The views from the top were lovely - I took a lot of photos, of course.
I had the most delicious balik ekmek (fish sandwich) under the bridge, along with half of Istanbul, it seemed. Nothing tastes as good as fresh produce in the open air, when you're really hungry. It was a really nice day, and was actually nice to spend the day on my own, doing things at my own pace.
This was Thursday.
I got up super early to go and meet a friend at Haydrpasa station.
We had breakfast in the train station restaurant. It beats UK train station catering by miles. All these beautiful blue tiles and light streaming in through the windows. And a great traditional Turkish breakfast to start the day with - cheese, tomatoes, cucumber, jam, olives, bread, and plenty of tea.
After my friend set off for Ankara, I wandered along the beach. I was looking for the Moda tea rooms, which have been recommended to me. I wanted to read my book and enjoy the views. I couldn't find it, so I took a ferry to Eminonu on the European side. I love travelling by ferry from Asia to Europe. It has to be one of the the best ways of travelling - or the most stunning commute in the world for those who work on the other side. It retains a touch of old fashioned glamour. The views are amazing, and it's so atmospheric. A guy goes around selling cups of cay for 50g (about 20p). I've actually stopped converting prices into pounds. I'm earning Turkish money so it makes so sense to convert it.
I walked over the Galata bridge, which is always packed with fishermen. Everyone had told me not to attempt climbing the hill and to take the tram up to Taksim, but a)I like walking, and b)why would I pay for the tram when I have legs? It's a really steep hill. I think if I had tried to climb it at the beginning of the year, I would have collapsed, I was so unfit. But I've done a lot of walking this year (in Poland in the mountains, in Birmingham rather than taking the bus, and in New York, and now here) and my fitness has improved hugely.
I got to Istikal Cadessi, which is like the main high street, lined with shops and cafes. Stopped off in Starbucks for a chai latte and some people watching.
I never go to Starbucks in the UK but I've started going here occasionally, simply because it's the only place I can get chai. It's not even proper chai but it's hot and vaguely spicy and it will do. I sat outside and watched the people go by.
I wandered up to Taksim Square. I really want to buy a microphone for my laptop for Skype purposes. But the only one I've seen here is way too expensive. Plus the last time I used Skype, the line was terrible. I had to shout, and my Grandma could hardly make out what I was saying.
I strolled along some alleyways lined with little shops. Found a cool shop selling prints and small posters of old movies and adverts from the early 1900s. Went into a beautiful Italian church.
I then spent a happy few hours in an English book shop called Robinson Crusoe. It's a book shop just as book shops should be - old and wooden and creaky, with shelves stuffed with all sorts of books. The trouble is, books are expensive here (they just convert the UK price into YTL). I love books, but I can be a difficult customer to satisfy. I'm often unimpressed with stories, or get bored with them. Therefore, I don't want to spend 20 or 30 YTL on something unless I'm pretty sure I will enjoy it. I picked up quite a few books and almost bought them - a few Haruki Murakumi ones and Love in the time of Cholera. Eventually, I just bought Time Out Istanbul, and wandered back down to the Galata Bridge.
I stopped off on the way at the Galata Tower I sat down on a bench outside, and this nice old Turkish lady was trying to chat to me. I want to be able to speak Turkish! I like random chats!
I decided to climb the tower. There was quite a long queue, and everyone was pushing and getting into each others personal space, as happens all the time here. When you walk down the street, people will shove into you quite hard. When I first got here, it really bothered me, as it would in England, but I've come to realise that no-one cares or does it with any malice - they don't even really notice. So I've started barging and shoving too :-)
The sign about admission prices was rather typically Turkish and annoying. Thankfully, I do know enough Turkish by now to be able to understand basic signs. The sign went something like this:
BILET: BES YTL
TICKET: 10 YTL
Bes means 5. So clearly it's a con, as people who can't understand Turkish pay 10. Indeed, I saw some tourists in front of me pay 10 each. I thought: huh, I'm not bloody paying 10 when it's 5, and marched up and spoke in Turkish. The clerk blatantly knew I wasn't Turkish but was probably too embarrassed to try to charge me 10.
The views from the top were lovely - I took a lot of photos, of course.
I had the most delicious balik ekmek (fish sandwich) under the bridge, along with half of Istanbul, it seemed. Nothing tastes as good as fresh produce in the open air, when you're really hungry. It was a really nice day, and was actually nice to spend the day on my own, doing things at my own pace.
Thursday
Bayram was great. I finally had a chance to see this city, and I'm starting to fall in love with it.
This was Thursday.
I got up super early to go and meet a friend at Haydarpasa station.
We had breakfast in the train station restaurant. It beats UK train station catering by miles. All these beautiful blue tiles and light streaming in through the windows. And a great traditional Turkish breakfast to start the day with - cheese, tomatoes, cucumber, jam, olives, bread, and plenty of tea.
After my friend set off for Ankara, I wandered along the beach. I was looking for the Moda tea rooms, which have been recommended to me. I wanted to read my book and enjoy the views. I couldn't find it, so I took a ferry to Eminonu on the European side. I love travelling by ferry from Asia to Europe. It has to be one of the the best ways of travelling - or the most stunning commute in the world for those who work on the other side. It retains a touch of old fashioned glamour. The views are amazing, and it's so atmospheric. A guy goes around selling cups of cay for 50g (about 20p). I've actually stopped converting prices into pounds. I'm earning Turkish money so it makes so sense to convert it.
I walked over the Galata bridge, which is always packed with fishermen. Everyone had told me not to attempt climbing the hill and to take the tram up to Taksim, but a)I like walking, and b)why would I pay for the tram when I have legs? It's a really steep hill. I think if I had tried to climb it at the beginning of the year, I would have collapsed, I was so unfit. But I've done a lot of walking this year (in Poland in the mountains, in Birmingham rather than taking the bus, and in New York, and now here) and my fitness has improved hugely.
I got to Istikal Cadessi, which is like the main high street, lined with shops and cafes. Stopped off in Starbucks for a chai latte and some people watching.
I never go to Starbucks in the UK but I've started going here occasionally, simply because it's the only place I can get chai. It's not even proper chai but it's hot and vaguely spicy and it will do. I sat outside and watched the people go by. Turkish women dress pretty smartly. Usually, I think I blend in ok as I have dark hair (Iim not instantly spotted as a foreigner, as some other teachers are - especially fair ones - or those with blue eyes). But yesterday I was wearing combats, and carrying a small rucksack. I don't like rucksacks, I think they're fugly, but proper bags are just so umcomfortable and awkward to carry round for a whole day, especially when you're walking.
I wandered up to Taksim Square. I really want to buy a microphone for my laptop for Skype purposes. But the only one I've seen here is way too expensive. Plus the last time I used Skype, the line was terrible. I had to shout, and my Grandma could hardly make out what I was saying.
I strolled along some alleyways lined with little shops. Found a cool shop selling prints and small posters of old movies and adverts from the early 1900s. Went into a beautiful Italian church. I'm not religious or Christian (Jewish, technically), but it felt nice to be in a church, something that was familiar to me. There was a lovely nativity scene and Christmas tree. I miss Christmas. I've been invited to a Christmas Eve dinner - and I expect we'll do something at the lojman. It's not the same as being with family though.
I then spent a happy few hours in an English book shop called Robinson Crusoe. It's a book shop just as book shops should be - old and wooden and creaky, with shelves stuffed with all sorts of books. The trouble is, books are expensive here (they just convert the UK price into YTL). I love books, but I can be a difficult customer to satisfy. I'm often unimpressed with stories, or get bored with them. Therefore, I don't want to spend 20 or 30 YTL on something unless I'm pretty sure I will enjoy it. I picked up quite a few books and almost bought them - a few Haruki Murakumi ones and Love in the time of Cholera. Eventually, I just bought Time Out Istanbul, and wandered back down to the Galata Bridge.
I stopped off on the way at the Galata Tower I sat down on a bench outside, and this nice old Turkish lady was trying to chat to me. I want to be able to speak Turkish! I like random chats!
I decided to climb the tower. There was quite a long queue, and everyone was pushing and getting into each others personal space, as happens all the time here. When you walk down the street, people will shove into you quite hard. When I first got here, it really bothered me, as it would in England, but I've come to realise that no-one cares or does it with any malice - they don't even really notice. So I've started barging and shoving too :-)
The sign about admission prices was rather typically Turkish and annoying. Thankfully, I do know enough Turkish by now to be able to understand basic signs. The sign went something like this:
BILET: BES YTL
TICKET: 10 YTL
Bes means 5. So clearly it's a con, as people who can't understand Turkish pay 10. Indeed, I saw some tourists in front of me pay 10 each. I thought: huh, I'm not bloody paying 10 when it's 5, and marched up and spoke in Turkish. The clerk blatantly knew I wasn't Turkish but was probably too embarrassed to try to charge me 10.
The views from the top were lovely - I took a lot of photos, of course.
I had the most delicious balik ekmek (fish sandwich) under the bridge, along with half of Istanbul, it seemed. Nothing tastes as good as fresh produce in the open air, when you're really hungry. It was a really nice day, and was actually nice to spend the day on my own, doing things at my own pace.
This was Thursday.
I got up super early to go and meet a friend at Haydarpasa station.
We had breakfast in the train station restaurant. It beats UK train station catering by miles. All these beautiful blue tiles and light streaming in through the windows. And a great traditional Turkish breakfast to start the day with - cheese, tomatoes, cucumber, jam, olives, bread, and plenty of tea.
After my friend set off for Ankara, I wandered along the beach. I was looking for the Moda tea rooms, which have been recommended to me. I wanted to read my book and enjoy the views. I couldn't find it, so I took a ferry to Eminonu on the European side. I love travelling by ferry from Asia to Europe. It has to be one of the the best ways of travelling - or the most stunning commute in the world for those who work on the other side. It retains a touch of old fashioned glamour. The views are amazing, and it's so atmospheric. A guy goes around selling cups of cay for 50g (about 20p). I've actually stopped converting prices into pounds. I'm earning Turkish money so it makes so sense to convert it.
I walked over the Galata bridge, which is always packed with fishermen. Everyone had told me not to attempt climbing the hill and to take the tram up to Taksim, but a)I like walking, and b)why would I pay for the tram when I have legs? It's a really steep hill. I think if I had tried to climb it at the beginning of the year, I would have collapsed, I was so unfit. But I've done a lot of walking this year (in Poland in the mountains, in Birmingham rather than taking the bus, and in New York, and now here) and my fitness has improved hugely.
I got to Istikal Cadessi, which is like the main high street, lined with shops and cafes. Stopped off in Starbucks for a chai latte and some people watching.
I never go to Starbucks in the UK but I've started going here occasionally, simply because it's the only place I can get chai. It's not even proper chai but it's hot and vaguely spicy and it will do. I sat outside and watched the people go by. Turkish women dress pretty smartly. Usually, I think I blend in ok as I have dark hair (Iim not instantly spotted as a foreigner, as some other teachers are - especially fair ones - or those with blue eyes). But yesterday I was wearing combats, and carrying a small rucksack. I don't like rucksacks, I think they're fugly, but proper bags are just so umcomfortable and awkward to carry round for a whole day, especially when you're walking.
I wandered up to Taksim Square. I really want to buy a microphone for my laptop for Skype purposes. But the only one I've seen here is way too expensive. Plus the last time I used Skype, the line was terrible. I had to shout, and my Grandma could hardly make out what I was saying.
I strolled along some alleyways lined with little shops. Found a cool shop selling prints and small posters of old movies and adverts from the early 1900s. Went into a beautiful Italian church. I'm not religious or Christian (Jewish, technically), but it felt nice to be in a church, something that was familiar to me. There was a lovely nativity scene and Christmas tree. I miss Christmas. I've been invited to a Christmas Eve dinner - and I expect we'll do something at the lojman. It's not the same as being with family though.
I then spent a happy few hours in an English book shop called Robinson Crusoe. It's a book shop just as book shops should be - old and wooden and creaky, with shelves stuffed with all sorts of books. The trouble is, books are expensive here (they just convert the UK price into YTL). I love books, but I can be a difficult customer to satisfy. I'm often unimpressed with stories, or get bored with them. Therefore, I don't want to spend 20 or 30 YTL on something unless I'm pretty sure I will enjoy it. I picked up quite a few books and almost bought them - a few Haruki Murakumi ones and Love in the time of Cholera. Eventually, I just bought Time Out Istanbul, and wandered back down to the Galata Bridge.
I stopped off on the way at the Galata Tower I sat down on a bench outside, and this nice old Turkish lady was trying to chat to me. I want to be able to speak Turkish! I like random chats!
I decided to climb the tower. There was quite a long queue, and everyone was pushing and getting into each others personal space, as happens all the time here. When you walk down the street, people will shove into you quite hard. When I first got here, it really bothered me, as it would in England, but I've come to realise that no-one cares or does it with any malice - they don't even really notice. So I've started barging and shoving too :-)
The sign about admission prices was rather typically Turkish and annoying. Thankfully, I do know enough Turkish by now to be able to understand basic signs. The sign went something like this:
BILET: BES YTL
TICKET: 10 YTL
Bes means 5. So clearly it's a con, as people who can't understand Turkish pay 10. Indeed, I saw some tourists in front of me pay 10 each. I thought: huh, I'm not bloody paying 10 when it's 5, and marched up and spoke in Turkish. The clerk blatantly knew I wasn't Turkish but was probably too embarrassed to try to charge me 10.
The views from the top were lovely - I took a lot of photos, of course.
I had the most delicious balik ekmek (fish sandwich) under the bridge, along with half of Istanbul, it seemed. Nothing tastes as good as fresh produce in the open air, when you're really hungry. It was a really nice day, and was actually nice to spend the day on my own, doing things at my own pace.
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