Tuesday 30 December 2008

Saturday 13 December 2008

Bayram was great. I finally had a chance to see this city, and I'm starting to fall in love with it.

This was Thursday.

I got up super early to go and meet a friend at Haydrpasa station.
Photobucket

We had breakfast in the train station restaurant. It beats UK train station catering by miles. All these beautiful blue tiles and light streaming in through the windows. And a great traditional Turkish breakfast to start the day with - cheese, tomatoes, cucumber, jam, olives, bread, and plenty of tea.

Photobucket

After my friend set off for Ankara, I wandered along the beach. I was looking for the Moda tea rooms, which have been recommended to me. I wanted to read my book and enjoy the views. I couldn't find it, so I took a ferry to Eminonu on the European side. I love travelling by ferry from Asia to Europe. It has to be one of the the best ways of travelling - or the most stunning commute in the world for those who work on the other side. It retains a touch of old fashioned glamour. The views are amazing, and it's so atmospheric. A guy goes around selling cups of cay for 50g (about 20p). I've actually stopped converting prices into pounds. I'm earning Turkish money so it makes so sense to convert it.

I walked over the Galata bridge, which is always packed with fishermen. Everyone had told me not to attempt climbing the hill and to take the tram up to Taksim, but a)I like walking, and b)why would I pay for the tram when I have legs? It's a really steep hill. I think if I had tried to climb it at the beginning of the year, I would have collapsed, I was so unfit. But I've done a lot of walking this year (in Poland in the mountains, in Birmingham rather than taking the bus, and in New York, and now here) and my fitness has improved hugely.

I got to Istikal Cadessi, which is like the main high street, lined with shops and cafes. Stopped off in Starbucks for a chai latte and some people watching.

Photobucket

I never go to Starbucks in the UK but I've started going here occasionally, simply because it's the only place I can get chai. It's not even proper chai but it's hot and vaguely spicy and it will do. I sat outside and watched the people go by.

I wandered up to Taksim Square. I really want to buy a microphone for my laptop for Skype purposes. But the only one I've seen here is way too expensive. Plus the last time I used Skype, the line was terrible. I had to shout, and my Grandma could hardly make out what I was saying.

I strolled along some alleyways lined with little shops. Found a cool shop selling prints and small posters of old movies and adverts from the early 1900s. Went into a beautiful Italian church.

Photobucket

I then spent a happy few hours in an English book shop called Robinson Crusoe. It's a book shop just as book shops should be - old and wooden and creaky, with shelves stuffed with all sorts of books. The trouble is, books are expensive here (they just convert the UK price into YTL). I love books, but I can be a difficult customer to satisfy. I'm often unimpressed with stories, or get bored with them. Therefore, I don't want to spend 20 or 30 YTL on something unless I'm pretty sure I will enjoy it. I picked up quite a few books and almost bought them - a few Haruki Murakumi ones and Love in the time of Cholera. Eventually, I just bought Time Out Istanbul, and wandered back down to the Galata Bridge.

I stopped off on the way at the Galata Tower I sat down on a bench outside, and this nice old Turkish lady was trying to chat to me. I want to be able to speak Turkish! I like random chats!

I decided to climb the tower. There was quite a long queue, and everyone was pushing and getting into each others personal space, as happens all the time here. When you walk down the street, people will shove into you quite hard. When I first got here, it really bothered me, as it would in England, but I've come to realise that no-one cares or does it with any malice - they don't even really notice. So I've started barging and shoving too :-)

The sign about admission prices was rather typically Turkish and annoying. Thankfully, I do know enough Turkish by now to be able to understand basic signs. The sign went something like this:

BILET: BES YTL

TICKET: 10 YTL

Bes means 5. So clearly it's a con, as people who can't understand Turkish pay 10. Indeed, I saw some tourists in front of me pay 10 each. I thought: huh, I'm not bloody paying 10 when it's 5, and marched up and spoke in Turkish. The clerk blatantly knew I wasn't Turkish but was probably too embarrassed to try to charge me 10.

The views from the top were lovely - I took a lot of photos, of course.

Photobucket

Photobucket

I had the most delicious balik ekmek (fish sandwich) under the bridge, along with half of Istanbul, it seemed. Nothing tastes as good as fresh produce in the open air, when you're really hungry. It was a really nice day, and was actually nice to spend the day on my own, doing things at my own pace.

Thursday

Bayram was great. I finally had a chance to see this city, and I'm starting to fall in love with it.

This was Thursday.

I got up super early to go and meet a friend at Haydarpasa station.
Photobucket

We had breakfast in the train station restaurant. It beats UK train station catering by miles. All these beautiful blue tiles and light streaming in through the windows. And a great traditional Turkish breakfast to start the day with - cheese, tomatoes, cucumber, jam, olives, bread, and plenty of tea.

Photobucket

After my friend set off for Ankara, I wandered along the beach. I was looking for the Moda tea rooms, which have been recommended to me. I wanted to read my book and enjoy the views. I couldn't find it, so I took a ferry to Eminonu on the European side. I love travelling by ferry from Asia to Europe. It has to be one of the the best ways of travelling - or the most stunning commute in the world for those who work on the other side. It retains a touch of old fashioned glamour. The views are amazing, and it's so atmospheric. A guy goes around selling cups of cay for 50g (about 20p). I've actually stopped converting prices into pounds. I'm earning Turkish money so it makes so sense to convert it.

I walked over the Galata bridge, which is always packed with fishermen. Everyone had told me not to attempt climbing the hill and to take the tram up to Taksim, but a)I like walking, and b)why would I pay for the tram when I have legs? It's a really steep hill. I think if I had tried to climb it at the beginning of the year, I would have collapsed, I was so unfit. But I've done a lot of walking this year (in Poland in the mountains, in Birmingham rather than taking the bus, and in New York, and now here) and my fitness has improved hugely.

I got to Istikal Cadessi, which is like the main high street, lined with shops and cafes. Stopped off in Starbucks for a chai latte and some people watching.

Photobucket

I never go to Starbucks in the UK but I've started going here occasionally, simply because it's the only place I can get chai. It's not even proper chai but it's hot and vaguely spicy and it will do. I sat outside and watched the people go by. Turkish women dress pretty smartly. Usually, I think I blend in ok as I have dark hair (Iim not instantly spotted as a foreigner, as some other teachers are - especially fair ones - or those with blue eyes). But yesterday I was wearing combats, and carrying a small rucksack. I don't like rucksacks, I think they're fugly, but proper bags are just so umcomfortable and awkward to carry round for a whole day, especially when you're walking.

I wandered up to Taksim Square. I really want to buy a microphone for my laptop for Skype purposes. But the only one I've seen here is way too expensive. Plus the last time I used Skype, the line was terrible. I had to shout, and my Grandma could hardly make out what I was saying.

I strolled along some alleyways lined with little shops. Found a cool shop selling prints and small posters of old movies and adverts from the early 1900s. Went into a beautiful Italian church. I'm not religious or Christian (Jewish, technically), but it felt nice to be in a church, something that was familiar to me. There was a lovely nativity scene and Christmas tree. I miss Christmas. I've been invited to a Christmas Eve dinner - and I expect we'll do something at the lojman. It's not the same as being with family though.

Photobucket

I then spent a happy few hours in an English book shop called Robinson Crusoe. It's a book shop just as book shops should be - old and wooden and creaky, with shelves stuffed with all sorts of books. The trouble is, books are expensive here (they just convert the UK price into YTL). I love books, but I can be a difficult customer to satisfy. I'm often unimpressed with stories, or get bored with them. Therefore, I don't want to spend 20 or 30 YTL on something unless I'm pretty sure I will enjoy it. I picked up quite a few books and almost bought them - a few Haruki Murakumi ones and Love in the time of Cholera. Eventually, I just bought Time Out Istanbul, and wandered back down to the Galata Bridge.

I stopped off on the way at the Galata Tower I sat down on a bench outside, and this nice old Turkish lady was trying to chat to me. I want to be able to speak Turkish! I like random chats!

I decided to climb the tower. There was quite a long queue, and everyone was pushing and getting into each others personal space, as happens all the time here. When you walk down the street, people will shove into you quite hard. When I first got here, it really bothered me, as it would in England, but I've come to realise that no-one cares or does it with any malice - they don't even really notice. So I've started barging and shoving too :-)

The sign about admission prices was rather typically Turkish and annoying. Thankfully, I do know enough Turkish by now to be able to understand basic signs. The sign went something like this:

BILET: BES YTL

TICKET: 10 YTL

Bes means 5. So clearly it's a con, as people who can't understand Turkish pay 10. Indeed, I saw some tourists in front of me pay 10 each. I thought: huh, I'm not bloody paying 10 when it's 5, and marched up and spoke in Turkish. The clerk blatantly knew I wasn't Turkish but was probably too embarrassed to try to charge me 10.

The views from the top were lovely - I took a lot of photos, of course.

Photobucket

Photobucket

I had the most delicious balik ekmek (fish sandwich) under the bridge, along with half of Istanbul, it seemed. Nothing tastes as good as fresh produce in the open air, when you're really hungry. It was a really nice day, and was actually nice to spend the day on my own, doing things at my own pace.

Wednesday 10 December 2008

The Bayram has been lots of fun so far. It's so nice to have some free time to see this city. Usually all I do is go to work and come back. I've taken heaps of photos in the last few days and eaten all sorts of Turkish food.

At some point I will put some photos up here.

I've lost 6 kilos since moving to Istanbul, but I suspect that in the last few days I've put it all back on. Turkish food is so delicious and tempting.

Thursday 4 December 2008

Today's stash from the market:
1 kilo of potatoes: 1.25 YTL
2 kilos of mandarins: 2.50 YTL
1 kilo of aubergines: 2 YTL
a cauliflower: 1 YTL
broccolli: 1 YTL
Blue hooded zip up top: 5 YTL


The market was very busy due to Bayram next week.

My Turkish isn't improving. Its quite pathetic that I've been here for five weeks and only know a handful of phrases.

Friday 14 November 2008

Today was my day off and I went to the Istanbul Modern. It was quite good, but there was nothing remotely controversial like you usually get at modern art museums. Had a fresh fish sandwich next to the Galata Bridge afterwards.

Thursday 6 November 2008

Things I like about Turkey

I've been here for a week now and want to focus on the positive.

Weather

It's the 6th of November, and it's pleasantly warm - about 18C. I went out earlier in a short sleeved shirt, and was fine. It hasn't rained since I've got here, and central heating isn't necessary yet. Makes a nice change from England. I only went back for a week, and hated the cold. I really can't stand being cold. I grew up in a house without working central heating, and really hated the winters. So I'm really appreciating the climate here in Istanbul.

Food

I love Turkish food. I can buy fresh fruit and vegetables on every street corner cheaply. A delicious, local pomegranate costs less than 1 YTL (about 40p) compared to more than £1 in England. I live five minutes from the sea, and can buy all sorts of fresh fish direct from fishermen along the promenade. Street food in England consists of doughnuts (which admittedly are very nice when served warm), hot dogs and Mr Sizzle. Street food in Istanbul consists of corn on the cob, hot chestnuts, simit (sesame bread rings), fish sandwiches and chai (tea). I'm already eating better than I usually do at home. I hated the limited diet in Poland. It was mainly about red meat and strange parts of an animal, or peirogi. Nine times out of 10 I would feel bloated and sick after eating. I don't get that here.

Street life

Most people in Istanbul live in apartments and gardens are a rare luxury. As a result of this, the streets are always busy with people. In England, if you go out in the evening, you're often the only person walking, as cars whizz past. It doesn't always feel safe. Here though, it doesn't seem to matter what time you go out, there's always life. And cats. The cats here are very friendly - maybe it's because I'm the only person to give them any attention.




Tuesday 4 November 2008

I NEED TO LEARN TURKISH urgently!!

Today I went for a wander. Once it got dark, I took the minibus back from Kadikoy. Paid the driver with a 20, he didn't give me any change. I've been told already that you sometimes have to wait for change, but the drivers always remember and give it back. Started to get stressed as he seemed to have forgotten, or wasn't intending to give me my change.

I speak all of three words in Turkish and felt embarrassed to speak up on a really packed minibus and have everyone stare at me. Worked out how to say "my change" with the help of my phrase book. Muttered it to him, and he eventually thrust 8 lira at me. So either he thought I had paid with a 10, or was ripping me off. 10 YTL is about £4 and goes a long way here so there was no way I could let it go. EVERYONE was staring at me, I had to ask the whole minibus if anyone spoke English, as the driver was just ranting at me in Turkish. Eventually after acting out giving him a 20 and getting 8 back, people seemed to understand what had happened, and from what I could tell, were telling the driver off. He did give me the 10 back after much confusion and complaining. But I felt really embarrassed and flushed. I hate feeling helpless and not knowing any of the language.

I am supposed to be having Turkish lessons at the language school, but they need five students to go ahead with a class, and only have four at the moment.

Sunday 2 November 2008

It's now November and I haven't written in here a great deal.

Well, I managed to finish the CELTA course in New York and stay sane while doing so. I got a B grade which I was very pleased with.

I stayed in New York for 10 days after the course ended and thoroughly enjoyed being a tourist. I did all the usual touristy things - Top of the Rock, Statue of Liberty, Ellis Island, Central Park, Chicago on Broadway - plus a dog show and much pizza at Grimaldi's under the Brooklyn Bridge.

I went back to England for a week and almost fainted at the prices and almost froze to death in the snow and sub zero temperatures. I had just got used to wearing a hat, scarf and gloves...until....

Three days ago I moved to Istanbul! I have a 9-month contract with English First on the Asian side of the city. I start teaching tomorrow so can't write too much as I really should be lesson planning.

So far I like it a lot here. I'm planning to start running in the mornings (maybe not EVERY morning but a few times a week). I live in a nice neighbourhood just a few blocks from the seaside and promenade.

Sunday 21 September 2008

I've been in New York for 12 days now. The first week of the course has gone well. It's a lot to take in, and it feels like a long time since I learned anything new. I've already taught three lessons (one hour and 20 minutes in total) and have another four hours and forty minutes to go.

As for New York. Well.

I've walked across the Brooklyn Bridge twice. The pedestrian lane definitely needs to be wider, but it's a great way to get to Manhattan. I'd like to go first thing in the morning, when hopefully there wouldn't be so many annoying tourists. Ok, I suppose I am also a tourist (albeit one who is living and studying here) of a kind, but I am different in a few ways. I am generally alone, not in a big group who insists on all walking in a line and blocking the path. I don't wear a huge camera around my neck which screams tourist. I don't wear t-shirts that proudly announce other cities I've been to. I don't wear I heart NY T-shirts. I don't irritate and bother people who are just trying to get on with their day. So in conclusion, I am a superior human being. (I'd like to make it clear that this is supposed to be tongue in cheek!)

I went to a street festival in Little Italy. All the streets were closed to traffic and there were stalls selling all sorts of food (deep fried Oreos, anyone?) and nick-nacks.

Ate at an Indian restaurant. I'm sorry to say, but it was really lousy compared to your bog standard average balti place in Birmingham. The portions were minute (my tandoori fish had about five chunks of fish in it), and the onions were burnt black. It just confirmed my suspicions that Americans just can't do Indian food. And the people who ran that place were British Indians! Something obviously got lost over the Atlantic.

Took the Staten Island ferry. This is a free commuter ferry connecting Manhattan to Staten Island. It leaves from the tip of the island, next to Battery Park (which I have to say is very poorly lit at night and I didn't feel safe there. I also saw a rat run across my path). Lots of tourists take a round trip on the ferry just for the great views of Manhattan. The views were great, but my photos were not. The combination of moving ferry, dark night, and bright lights were just too much for my camera. I really need to work out the settings on my camera. The tourists were also annoying on the ferry. Some locals were complaining about the group of girls who pushed past everyone and ran onto the ferry to get the best spot. I had a quiet spot to myself, and then some woman came and stood right in front of me and leaned out to take pictures, which I found rather obnoxious, as it completely blocked my view. So I did the same thing back to her.

I've been for a long walk through Central Park. It's very good for people watching. I saw a few drum circles, live musicians, read the newspaper and took photos. It really is a collosal space. I walked for hours and only got around half way through the park. I'll have to go back during my time here.

I've seen a lot of Tribeca, as that is where my university is. It's a nice, non touristy area in the Financial District. It's just two blocks from the site of the world trade centre. Which is now just a big building site and a block sized space in between all the other buildings.

I like Whole Foods, and the Fort Greene farmers market, and free movie screenings at St John's, and the bargain bin at Duane Reade.

I love the fact that the subway runs all night, and seems to be busy at any time, so I didn't feel unsafe coming back to Brooklyn alone at 1am.

Last night there were no lights on the subway, so it was pitch black in the tunnels. It's sometimes hard to believe this is the richest country in the world. The subway stations are kind of shabby and have no escalators. It doesn't really compare to the tube, but then a single ride in New York is $2 (£1), and a single ride in London is £4.